My Favorite Swimming Spot
I’ve always dreamed of swimming in one of those one-of-a-kind places like I’ve seen in travel magazines. I still haven’t come across a swimming hole in the middle of a jungle (to be honest, I haven’t gone looking though either!) or an isolated beach with crystal blue waters. Sure, I’ve swam in many stunningly beautiful places throughout the Florida Keys, the Bahamas, and one of my favorites, Magen’s Bay in St. Thomas. However, swimming at San Fruttuoso has probably been my favorite swimming experience to date.
San Fruttuoso is a tiny fishing village located on a pristine bay between Camogli and Portofino along the Italian Riviera. According to one internet source, the population consists of 39 residents. San Fruttuoso can only be reached by foot using one of the national park trails from Camogli or Portofino, or via ferry.
Its isolated location, however, didn’t stop the droves of people that were there on the Sunday in July that we decided to visit. This is definitely the biggest drawback of San Fruttuoso. It can be difficult at times to even find a small plot of beach to call your own for the day. Alas, it’s not my isolated swimming hole (at least not on a weekend day in July!), but nevertheless I still love it.
I have also visited on a weekday in the late afternoon and there was only one person swimming and just a handful of us taking the ferry back to Camogli, so I do think it’s possible to enjoy a more serene experience. My recommendation is to go early in the morning or later in the day, and of course avoid the weekend.
So, what is there to love about San Fruttuoso? How about calm, clear turquoise water flanked by lush green hills? It’s hard to beat that! Although it can be extremely crowded, I did find that I could find some “alone” time. I swam out past the people congregating near the shore, turned around and floated on my back gazing up at the green hills contrasted by the bright blue sky. With my ears submerged under the water, I found myself to be in almost a meditative state with absolutely no other people in sight. Then when I shifted my gaze downward, I was greeted by an imposing white structure that is hugged by the hills around it. This is the Abbazia di San Fruttuoso, also known as San Fruttuoso Abbey in English.
History
San Fruttuoso Abbey has been an important location since the 8th century, when the ashes of San Fruttuoso, a bishop martyred in Catalonia in the 3rd century, was transported there. The abbey became of greater importance when it was rebuilt by the Benedictines/Greek Monks in the 10th century after being attacked by the Saracens. Later, in the 13th century the powerful Genoese Doria family took control of the abbey. They are responsible for the appearance of the current structure. With history like that coupled by gorgeous turquoise waters, what is not to love?
Attractions
Abbey & Museum
It is possible to visit the abbey for a fee of 7.50 euro. There is a museum on two floors of the main body of the abbey. It contains important artefacts that were discovered during the restoration of the abbey complex. Inside one will find some stunning views of the sea and some great photo ops outside of the abbey in a small courtyard near the restrooms. There’s also some rosemary bushes there, which I mention because I can’t resist smelling rosemary bushes! It’s a smell that always reminds me that I am in Italy.
Church
Additionally, there’s an adjoining church that features a replica of the statue “Il Cristo Degli Abissi”, known as “Christ of the Abyss” in English, which is an 8.6 foot sculpture by Guido Galletti. It was submerged near San Fruttuoso in 1954 as a memorial to sailors lost at sea. This statue is of particular interest to me because there is a doppleganger of this statue located in John Pennelkalmp State Park in Key Largo. It was cast of the same mold. I have visited the waters in that state park, but because I am not a scuba diver I have never actually seen the statue. However, at San Fruttuoso when the seas are calm, it is possible to visit via rowboat by a local.
Doria Tower
It is also possible to visit the Doria Tower, which is located along the steep staircase that connects the abbey with the tower. The fortress tower was constructed in 1562 by the descendants of Admiral Andrea Doria. It was built to protect against pirate attacks.
Additional Information
There are beach chairs and umbrellas for rent.
There are several restaurants, as well as a bar located on the beach, including the following:
- La Cantina
- Ristorante da Laura
- Da Giovanni
- Ristorante Giorgio
- Ristorante La Marina
How to get there
Trails-the hiking trails of the National Park of Portofino. The trails are well marked. My husband and I have little hiking experience and did not carry a map with us, and we were fine. However, we were expecting to find some natural springs along the way to refill our water bottles, but we never came across any, so be prepared and bring plenty of water.
Ferry-for departure times from Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino Mare, visit www.traghettiportofino.it, and for departure times from Camogli, visit www.golfoparadiso.it
Rental Boat-read about my fun experience renting a boat and why you may want to consider it.
Consider Visiting Nearby San Fruttuoso & Camogli
When spending some time on the Italian Riviera, it’s definitely worth it to consider a stop in San Fruttuoso and its neighboring towns of Camogli and Portofino.
Final Thoughts
It may seem a little daunting trying to get to San Fruttuoso because there are no roads. However, the journey there is half the fun, whether that be by foot or by ferry. It is well worth it to take the extra time to plan a trip there. Swimming at San Fruttuoso is an incredible experience. It’s not every day you get to have the opportunity to swim near a 1000 year old structure in the gorgeous water of the Mediterranean Sea.
