On a recent Friday we visited my husband’s hometown of Bra. During the summer, Bra hosts Aperitivo in Consolle, a special sort of aperitivo, in which various bars* represent a particular city. For example, Venice Beach offers hamburgers and french fries, while Freiburg, Germany offers sausage and sauerkraut. There are several DJ’s placed around the center of the town, pumping out ridiculously loud music. However, my husband and I don’t go for the special menus or the loud music, rather we (at least I) go for the “free” food and the people watching.
What is Aperitivo?
Origins of Aperitivo in Italy
First things first, though. What is aperitivo? I can’t say I entirely grasp the concept, but I will attempt to explain. Aperitivo is roughly the equivalent of the american “Happy Hour”, yet it is so much more. Its origins are a little unclear. Everyone can agree that it began in the north of Italy. However, some say it began in Torino by Antonio Benedetto Carpano, the vermouth liquor creator. Others claim that much later, in the 1860’s, Gaspare Campari, opened a cafe in Milan where he created the Americano, which is Campari liquor mixed with soda and vermouth. It was not until the 1920’s in Milan, however, that the idea of eating small snacks with an alcoholic bitter drink, was fully embraced.
What’s in a name?
The purpose of the aperitivo is to stimulate the appetite. The Latin verb “aperire” means “to open”, thus giving us the word aperitivo. Traditionally, a low alcohol beverage is consumed, typically mixed with Aperol or Campari liquors. Personally, I don’t enjoy these bitter beverages, but many do. I feel like it may be more of an acquired taste. Wine is also a popular choice, and I usually stick with a nice glass of vino.
Did someone say “free” food?
Served alongside the drinks, are a variety of snacks. At some bars they may only offer potato chips or olives. At other bars they may offer cheese, pasta, crostini, and even small sandwiches. The purpose of the aperitivo is not to make a meal out of it, but rather to stimulate your appetite. This is the part that I find hard to grasp. Sometimes the variety and amount of food offered is nearly enough to replace dinner.
The tradition of aperitivo in Italy has been a part of northern Italian culture for a longer period of time. However, now aperitivos can increasingly be found throughout Italy. A few years ago, my husband and I enjoyed a pleasant aperitivo in Napoli. It was a simple affair, however, with just a few snacks on offer.
A Typical Aperitivo in Italy-My Experience
On this particular night we made the mistake of waiting too long to find a table. Most of the tables were full or reserved by 8:00, so we ventured further from the center. Just when we had all but given up, we found a bar with open tables called La Cantinetta Bar located on Piazza Caduti per la Libertà. It was actually quite perfect because just outside the bar in the piazza an open air concert performed by a local orchestra was taking place.
Additionally, I was pleased to learn that at this particular aperitivo we were permitted to select our own food, à la buffet style. On offer was a menagerie of different food, including a simple pasta with marinara sauce, popcorn, green olives, turkey wrapped broccoli, a cold mixed vegetable frittata, spoons of salsa with a singular tortilla chip, and my favorite-a thick piece of salty pancetta encompassed in fried dough. I snatched nearly everything they had to offer. But to avoid feeling like a glutton, I did manage to restrain myself from selecting a few of their offerings. To accompany our pre-dinner snacks, was a Barbera wine for me, and a Martini & Rossi for my husband.
Despite the purpose of the aperitivo, I in fact did not feel the need to continue eating. However, while I wanted to go to Bra for the aperitivo, my husband had an ulterior motive, and that was the acquisition of pizza. We placed our name at a pizzeria located on the main pedestrian thoroughfare of Bra. The wait was almost 90 minutes, so we strolled through the streets, trying to work up an appetite for our pizza. I managed to find some room for some pizza and dinner was not finished until about 11:30. This may may seem late, but is actually quite common in Italy.
The aperitivo scene on a Friday night in Bra is definitely for the younger crowd, but can still be enjoyed by anyone. It starts to wind down in July as some people begin to take their summer vacations.
The total cost for our night out was around 37 euro ($40), which included 17 euro for aperitivo drinks (equivalent to $19), and 20 euro ($22) for two pizzas and a bottle of water. Our aperitivo drinks were nearly just as expensive as our pizza. However, aperitivo is an uniquely Italian experience that is not to be missed.
What You Need to Know about Aperitivo in Italy
When is Aperitivo?
If you are traveling within Italy and want to participate in aperitivo, you can be sure that you will find aperitivo after 7:00 and it may continue for several hours. However, I have taken an aperitivo as early as 5:30. There’s no hard and fast rule.
Buffet Style or Table Service
Also, not all aperitivos are the same. Sometimes a plate of snacks are brought to your table, other times the aperitvo is served buffet style. Recently, while in a bar in Torino, I paid 12 euro for an aperitivo. Included in this price was a drink of my choosing, as well as unlimited trips to the aperitivo buffet. The buffet included at least 25 different dishes lined along the bar.
Typical Cost of Aperitivo in Italy
Typically an aperitivo will cost somewhere in the vicinity of 8-12 euro. Also know that sometimes it’s possible to opt in or out of the aperitvo. For example, I recently paid an extra 2 euro so that I could have some nibbles while I drank a glass of wine.
Where are the Best Aperitivo in Italy
Although aperitivo is gaining in popularity across Italy, the best aperitivo are still likely to be found in the north. Milan and Turin are both places that really know how to do an aperitivo well.
On a Budget?
If you are trying to travel on a budget you could conceivably participate in aperitivo and skip dinner. Perhaps, you could follow up your aperitivo with a gelato, and call it a night. Or perhaps a fun experience could be to do a “pub crawl” Italian style. It may get a little pricey, but you definitely wouldn’t need to eat dinner after visiting just a few bars, and you would have the opportunity to sample dozens of different foods, maybe even if they aren’t always so traditional. I’m fairly certain a cheese puff topped salad is not a traditional Italian food (see photo). Nevertheless, it is fun!
* (in Italian a bar is really a cafe, that sells not only coffee, but also alcohol, whereas a “pub” would be more similar to what we consider a bar. However, pubs are not so common in Italy).
